Cima Brenta 3150m
Cima Brenta is one of the great mountains of the Brenta Dolomites.
It is still not perfectly clear, but it seems that the lowering of the snowfield on top of Cima Tosa led to Cima Brenta being the highest in the group.
We are talking about a few meters difference. Christian Casarotto, researcher and glaciologist from the Museum of Science of Trento, says: «I don’t know which is the highest. The advice is to climb both. ”
It is certainly an imposing and very panoramic peak, intricate and relatively uncrowded.
Historical note: the first ascent of the summit was achieved in the far August 1871 by the English mountaineer Freshfield who, with Tuckett and the guide Devouassoud, climbed from the west flank through the upper Brenta glacier. This route has been the only repeated one for years, until its almost complete abandonment when Garbari, in 1894, gave birth to the homonymous route from the east side.
Currently the main classic climb routes are three:
- NORTH SLIDE Stupendous steep snow slope, usually climbed in the winter-spring period. It presents stages up to 45° -50° inclination and can be tackled either on foot with crampons and ice axe or with touring skis. The latter is one of the great and classic extreme skiing itineraries on a pair with the Canalone Neri.
Logistically, being a fairly long and remote ascent (the approach varies from three to five hours) we usually spend the night before the climb at the winter bivouac of the Tuckett refuge.
- NORMAL ROUTE FROM THE EAST This is the most usual and shortest one out of the normal routes. Following the Bocchette Alte path you reach the Garbari ledge, a characteristic part of the famous via ferrata, from where the itinerary detaches and goes up towards east. The itinerary is relatively short but has sections up to the 2nd degree and the rock is not the most compact.
- NORMAL ROUTE FROM THE SOUTH Beautiful itinerary that winds through towers, ledges, walls and ridges, with mountaineering difficulties that are between 1st and 2nd degree. It is a very long itinerary which can be embarked from the Brentei refuge. The descent through the via ferrata Bocchette Alte allows you to make a loop of great satisfaction, reserved for well-trained hikers.
Il tracciato della lunga e panoramica via normale da S.
Logistics: The program plans on reaching the refuge independently on the first day and then meet the guide for dinner. The next day we will leave at dawn for the summit.
- with 1 client 350 €
- with 2 clients € 220
- with 3 clients € 160
If you are alone, do not hesitate to contact me, I could find you a partner to share the costs with.