VIA FERRATA IN THE DOLOMITES

The Brenta Dolomites group is fortunate to own one of the richest and most articulated ferrata systems in the Alps: the Via delle Bocchette.

But let’s start from the name: “bocchetta” means “pass”, “notch”, that is a point of passage between one valley and another one. These via ferratass masterfully link these various strategic points.
This network of equipped trails, which basically covers almost all the massif, allows even those who are not familiar with climbing to penetrate the heart of the mountains, enjoying breathtaking alpine landscapes and “strong emotions”.
The installation of these equipped itineraries began in 1936, thanks to SAT (local mountaineering club), intending to facilitate the connection between the various mountain shelters located in the Brenta massif. Being quite “old”, Brenta’s via ferratas follow the logical lines of the mountains, linking the various ledges and natural passages, making them very logical itineraries and pleasantly incorporated in the natural environment, unlike some modern ferratas of a sports character that have appeared in recent times in the Alps.

Following, the complete crossing of the Brenta group along the most emblematic via ferratas.

CROSSING THE BRENTA

An authentic exploratory journey in the heart of this massif, following the path of the legendary Via delle Bocchette, judged by some as “the most beautiful via ferrata in the world”.

1st day BENINI from Madonna di Campiglio with the ski lifts up to the Grostè plain (2437m). Subsequently, going on the path n. 305 that leads to the foot of the Grostè massif with a view over the entire valley of Tovel, we will take the “Sentiero Attrezzato Benini”, which passes right under Cima Falkner (3000m, possibility of detaching from the ferrata to climb the top, 1st grade climbing) and then continues towards Bocca di Tuckett or along the “Sentiero Attrezzato Dallagiacoma”. In the end, a short descent leads to the Tuckett refuge 2272m, known as the best place to eat in the Brenta Dolomites.
For further info and map click here.
Develop: 6 km
Time required: 4/5 hours
Difference in height: 600m

2nd day BOCCHETTE ALTE from the Tuckett refuge up to the homonymous notch where the ferrata begins, crossing the imposing East face of Cima Brenta. It is a via ferrata that is anything but banal, not so much for the technical difficulty but rather for the length and the presence of numerous ups and downs that involve a noticeable effort for the legs. In some stretches the ferrata touches the 3000m and the odds of bumping into the snow also in August is not unusual. The ferrata ends (possible variation on the via ferrata Olivia Detassis) at Alimonta refuge, which, with its 2580m, is the highest refuge in the Brenta Dolomites
For further info and map click here.
Time required: 6 hours
Difference in height: 700m

3rd day BOCCHETTE CENTRALI Departure from the Alimonta refuge for the Bocchette Centrali. After the steep climb often with a snow-covered part (sometimes crampons are needed) leading to the “high” notch of Molveno (2729m) the equipped path begins. Passing through the Sfulimini spiers and below the majestic Campanil Basso, just a stone’s throw away from its famous normal route probably with some climbers intented on the ascent, we will reach the Brenta notch (2552m). This steep pass (“bocca” in Italian, hence the name “via delle bocchette”) is the natural watershed between the Western Brenta with Madonna di Campiglio and the eastern one with Molveno and Andalo. In a very short time there will be a quick stop at the Rifugio Pedrotti alla Tosa and continuing then along the equipped path Palmieri (the high one or the low one) and, having crossed the forcolotta of Noghera (2423m) ending our crossing at the Agostini refuge in Ambiez valley. Note: possibility to vary from ref. Pedrotti along the Brentari path.
For further info and map click here.
Difference in height: 400m
Time required: 4-5 hours

EXTENSIONS
It is possible to cover a complete North-to-South crossing of the massif, with the following variants.
1st day: Costanzi Departure near the Peller Refuge (1990m) in Val di Tovel and then along the wild and not very beaten Costanzi equipped path, which crosses beautiful areas of the northern Brenta. Overnight stay at the Graffer refuge.

Time required: 10 hours
Difference in height: 900m
2nd day: Benini (see above)
3rd day: Bocchette Alte (see above)
4th day: Bocchette Centrali (see above)
5th day: Castiglioni from the Agostini refuge uphill through the spectacular via ferrata Castiglioni to the Susat summit, to then reach the XII Apostoli refuge for lunch, descent from the “scala santa” (literally the holy stairway) to the busa di Sacco and along the Val dʻAlgone to the Brenta refuge.
For further info and map click here.
Time required: 3.30h (up to refuge XII Apostoli)
Difference in height: 450m

SINGLE FERRATA
It is surely possible to walk separately each ferrata of the Brenta group, for example the Bocchette Centrali. In this case the customer usually reaches the refuge (Pedrotti, Brentei or Alimonta) independently the day before embarking on the via ferrata, so as to hire the guide only for the day of the ferrata. The guide will reach the customer for dinner or directly in the early morning of the scheduled day. For some less remote via ferratas, for example Sosat or Benini, it is possible to start directly from the valleyfloor.

Technical and athletic level required.
The via ferratas are often very exposed with vertical ladders, it is important not to suffer from vertigo. Being never extreme, good walking training and good resistance are required, given the length of the daily routes to be tackled, ranging from 4/5 to 7 hours of walking per day, excluding breaks.

PRICES and number of customers per guide.
These are approximately the prices for a single via ferrata. For more demanding via ferratas, for example the Bocchette Alte, there is a maximum of 4 customers for each guide, for the medium ones the limit is set to 5. For crossings of several days, ask for a personalized quotation.

  • 1 person 300 €
  • 2 persons 160 €
  • 3 persons 115 €
  • 4 persons € 100