For its position, aesthetics, engagement and rock quality, this peak is certainly one of the most beautiful and coveted of the Brenta group.
On the south wall there are some of the most beautiful and famous climbs of the group where we also find the two normal routes proposed here which are very beautiful and anything but trivial. Compared, for example to Cima Tosa or Cima Brenta, this wall presents longer and more complex climbs, which require the mastery of the 2nd degree and of rappelling techniques.
The normal route from the south
Starting from the Cacciatore refuge, which you generally reach with a four-wheel-drive taxi service, we will make it, in a couple of hours, to the wide ledge which is the beginning of the challenge.
The climb is characterized by many short pitches of rope (almost twenty) on discontinuous difficulties going from the 1st to the 3rd degree, the overall height difference is 700m. From the top, which offers a privileged view of Cima Tosa and the eastern Adamello massif, we can either go down the same route or continue the crossing.
The latter is certainly the most elegant choice: continue heading towards Cima Tosa and proceed to descend on the north side. A series of short abseils and “short rope party” climbing lead to the Ambiez notch and to the homonymous little glacier.
With crampons on, the descend through it goes on to the Agostini refuge.
Logistics: The ascent can be carried out on the same day starting from the valley and taking the taxi service very early in the morning. Alternatively you can reach the Agostini refuge independently on the day before, and then meet the guide the next day.
If you are alone, do not hesitate to contact me, I could find you a partner to share the costs with.