Edward Whymper, after the terrible disaster that afflicted the descent of the great conquest of the Matterhorn: “I had too great joys to describe, and such pains that I didn’t dare talk about. With these senses in my soul I say: go up to the mountains, but remember that courage and vigor, are nothing without prudence; remember that one-moment neglect can destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Don’t do anything in a hurry, look carefully at each step, and from the beginning, think about how it may and.”

CLIMBING THE CERVINO ON THE “CREST OF THE LION”, THE HORNLI CREST OR ALONG THE ITALY / SWITZERLAND CROSSING.

The Cervino or Matterhorn, with its 4478m is in 12th place among the 4000, with a universally recognized profile, one of the most famous mountains in the Alps and in the world.

Many dream of climbing it and many do it every year. The two less vertical ridges were the initial natural ascent routes: first the Hornli for Whymper and shortly after the crest of the Lion for Carrel. These were very demanding climbs even for excellent rock climbers, which is why over the years the most challenging passages have been equipped with ladders and ropes, the famous canapons.

Whichever route is chosen, an excellent psychophysical preparation is required. What matters is being trained enough and having sufficient breath to walk at a good pace, in the absence of snow the technical climbing component is less important. More than being climbers, it is necessary to be “chamois”, with sure-footedness and a good balance, and with a palate that is not too demanding (as regards food on the Swiss side).

Acclimatize? It is taken for granted that it is not the first climb to high mountains that one does, so it is ideal to get to know each other: if you know that the altitude does not bother you, you can safely climb the mountain in a day and a half from home, otherwise spending a short preparing period at high altitude can be important. To acclimatize you can climb a few other 4000 peaks in the previous days or you can even spend a night or two at the refuge (for example Teodulo or Guide del Cervino refuge) and be reached by the guide for the final ascent. In spite of appearance and fame, both normal routes are on healthy rock and cleaned from thousands of repeats, as long as you stay on the right path.

To climb the Matterhorn (with me) a preparatory excursion of a similar kind is mandatory, the normal way to Sassolungo is highly recommended.

CLIMBING THE CERVINO FOR THE CREST OF THE LION

Cost

1200€ + all customer and guide expenses.

Period

Two days, from mid-June to mid-October.

Type of progression and descent

For the most part “short rope party” where guide and client proceed very close with tightened rope, on the steep sections short pitches of rope will be done, belaying on the anchors found on site. During the descent, the guide generally lowers the customer who will secure himself to an anchor indicated to him while the guide descends climbing or rappeling. This is the fastest and safest technique.

The normal Italian route that leads to the top of the Matterhorn is technically more demanding than the Hornli ridge but if you sleep at the Carrel bivouac, located at 3800m, the difference in height to get to the top is less. In periods of good weather and when the route is in the best conditions (without snow) it is a very popular route to the point that the biggest risk is due to the high number of couples climbing.

For this, as for other very popular mountains, the traffic of aspirants to the top makes you lose a good slice of poetry when climbing (as well as increasing risks and stress). A good idea to avoid the problem could be training in the use of crampons on classic winter climbs so that you can tackle the climb in quiet periods (June and October) when there is almost nobody but a little snow that can complicate things. A good guide, however, knows some tricks to avoid bottle-necks in the crux sections and is able to take you to the top (and especially back to the valley bottom) even on peak days of August.

The technical difficulties do not exceed the 3rd degree and obviously A0 (the first degree of aid climbing) when going up ropes and ladders. The first fixed rope of the “cheminèe” that provides access to the Carrel is vertical and tiring, in order to avoid unpleasant surprises, (for example having to go home at the first fixed rope while paying the fare anyway) I personally bind the customer to a preparatory climb, in which, with the utmost fairness, I will tell you if you already have chances, if it is better to train more or directly let it go.

As timing, (with good conditions) calculate on average 1.45 h from Plan Maison to the Oriondè refuge (or you can go up with a for-wheel-drive) 3-4 h to climb from the Oriondé refuge to the Capanna Carrel plus, on summit day, 4 hours uphill and 6/7 hours to return to the Oriondé.

A well-trained team can also go up to the Matterhorn from the Oriondè refuge (ascent and descent in a day), indicatively calculate 13/16 hours. It is an excellent solution: you sleep and eat well, private rooms with bathroom and you are not bound to book the Carrel hut.

CLIMBING THE CERVINO ON THE HORNLI CREST

Cost

1200€ + all customer and guide expenses.

Period

Two days, from mid-June to mid-October.

Type of progression and descent

For the most part “short rope party” where guide and client proceed very close with tightened rope, on the steep sections short pitches of rope will be done, belaying on the anchors found on site. During the descent, the guide generally lowers the customer who will secure himself to an anchor indicated to him while the guide descends climbing or rappeling. This is the fastest and safest technique.

The normal Swiss route on the Matterhorn is the easiest route to climb the summit, compared to the crest of the Lion it is longer but less vertical and there are fewer fixed ropes.

Even if it is essentially an itinerary of rock, it is necessary to know how to use crampons because there are usually steep sections of snow and / or ice in the final part.

The commitment of the climb is given by having to climb over 1200m on terrain with a lot of 1st and 2nd degree, where you can’t prevaricate and you need to keep a good pace. The guides of Zermatt and Cervinia rightly have gates to respect, if you are unable to climb at the right pace you need to go back. A reasonable progression involves reaching the Solvay hut in 2 or 2.30 hours. It may be annoying but the descent from the Matterhorn is more demanding than the ascent and it is inevitably faced with less energy, for this reason timing and a careful evaluation of the psychophysical strengths is important. The fact that, in a sort of absurd kidnapping, the doors of the Hornli hutte open strictly around 5 o’clock is also to be considered, before that time they do not let anyone out.

As with the crest of the Lion, the best conditions (which translate into greater chances of reaching the top) occur when at least the first 2/3 of the mountain are cleaned from the snow. This is because the progression with crampons on, covered anchors and frozen canapons slows down a lot the team and times are expanding.

CROSSING OF THE CERVINO FROM THE ITALIAN SIDE TO THE SWISS SIDE

Cost

1400€ + all customer and guide expenses.

Period

Two days, from early June to late October.

Type of progression and descent

Type of progression and descent: For the most part “short rope party” where guide and client proceed very close with tightened rope, on the steep sections short pitches of rope will be done, belaying on the anchors found on site. During the descent, the guide generally lowers the customer who will secure himself to an anchor indicated to him while the guide descends climbing or rappeling. This is the fastest and safest technique.

The very idea of the “crossing” is always fascinating because you don’t retrace your steps. Speaking of the normal routes, climbing the crest of the Lion and going down on the Hornli is perhaps the most elegant way to climb the Matterhorn.

Compared to going up and down the Italian side, going down the Hornli ridge is more tiring because you have to climb “downwards” for longer stretches (while on the Lion you often abseil).

Needless to say, in one fell swoop you put both crests in your pocket and see both panoramas.

Normally it takes two days for the crossing, but it may take a second night at the Guide del Cervino refuge if you lose the last cable car of the Testa Grigia to return to the valley.

CLIMB THE CERVINO ON ONE OF THE NORMAL ROUTES IN WINTER, ON THE CREST OF ZMUTT, DE AMICIS, FURGGEN OR ON THE NORTH WALL.

This is a proposal that I insert only to inspire customers who already come to the mountains with me regularly (or for those who want to do it) because these are much more demanding climbs than the two normal ones and an excellent mutual understanding is required.

Crest of the Lion … in winter.

As I climbed the big peak the last time, in the middle of the crowd and with all ears to prevent accidents caused by unprepared teams, I thought: who knows how cool it is up here in winter!

With conditions that are not overly snowy, the crest of the Lion has always ropes and anchors reachable and if you are familiar with winter mountaineering it is certainly a feasible climb and … climbing the Matterhorn in winter is something special!

The locals say that the Zmutt ridge is the most beautiful of the four, it is a complete climb that normally presents itself in the best conditions in the spring. The Furggen ridge with its final overhangs is the most difficult from a technical point of view, the difficulties are concentrated in the upper part and the best conditions occur in autumn, same thing for the crest de Amicis at Pic Tyndall.
North Face Schmidt route:

some years ago almost by chance, (in the sense that the initial program was to do it together) I climbed this route alone in 4 hours, something that I would not do now even for the famous million dollars. It is a route where, as with all the north walls, everything depends on the conditions … if they are optimal, it can be a good adventure, not even so extreme.

The Albertini ridge to the Murallies hill or to Dent D’Herence is also a beautiful itinerary in this area.

Rates: private negotiation.