The highest peak in Trentino, a mountain of a thousand faces. Whatever mountaineering you love to practice, this peak has its place: from the scenic East ridge, to the snowy slopes where the Nardis trek comes to life, to the dizzying and cold Nord face and the Himalayan style East face.
Personally, I am very bond of this mountain, partly because it is the first summit I climbed as a boy, partly because I came back many times also opening new routes and it remains a place where I always find great pleasure.
Logistic is about reaching one of the shelters in the afternoon and then leave at dawn to go for the ascent.
Clothing and equipment: Warm hat, gloves, raincoat, warm sweater, light down jacket or two sweaters, sunglasses, boots for semi-step or step-in crampons, charged headlamp, climbing harness, 1 screw-lock climbing carabiner, water bottle, crampons suitable for the boots, helmet, ice axe, 35lt or more backpack, one or two trekking poles.
Price per person, including the rental of technical equipment (harness, crampons, ice axe and helmet). It’s preferred to work with preformed groups but if you are alone contact us anyway, we will do our best to find you a climbing mate.
Always ask about the contractual conditions.
Via Normale from the Bocchetta del Monte Nero (PD)
Of the three normal routes the one that starts from Segantini refuge is the most various. After an access trek, you will hit a small via ferrata to the Monte Nero pass which leads to the snowy ridge that takes you directly to the Orobica bivouac and then to the summit. It is rather direct and very panoramic, with a climb of 1100m and about 5 hours of walking. Here you can find a good report by Christian Nannetti with some photos.
Normal route from Val Nardis (E)
Very long excursion generally without technical issues but not easy to navigate. It starts from the beginning of the Val Nardis going up parallel to the homonymous waterfalls. A climb of 1250mt separates Val di Genova from the Roberti bivouac where it is better to spend the night. Another 1300mt of climb allows you to stand on the summit, the last part of the climb is often snowy.
Normal route from the Freshfield saddle (PD)
The route of the first ascent ever, a glacial itinerary less obvious than it may seem. It starts from the Denza refuge in the upper Val di Sole, leading to the saddle that took the name of the first English climber. A traverse, generally on snow or debris, brings within a short time to the summit. 1300mt of climb.
North wall (500m 55 °)
A must-do for the enthusiast of north walls, it is the most important route of the wall, a long slope of snow and ice up to 55° steep, a 500m ascent that is felt in the legs. Suggested time for climbing is late spring.
North-East crest (600m, 3˚, 45˚)
It is perhaps the most rewarding itinerary for the classic mountaineer, for those who love high mountains, breathtaking environment, the mixed terrain where taking off crampons from the feet is unlikely to happen and wonderful views. The master point is in the immediate crossing of the Amola pass, where you can choose various options to overcome the first tower and take the actual ridge. A good report is available here.
Via delle Guide on the East wall (500m 5+)
Itinerary reserved for experienced climbers. If the homonymous route on Crozzon di Brenta has a great reputation and frequentation, this (also a master piece of the Detassis brothers) has had over the years very few repeats by some good adventure-lover mountaineers. It does not feel much different from the Gervasutti spur at the Tacul, a severe route that has also recently been rediscovered in terms of winter mixed climbing.